Pick up your whole set, a d4, d6, d8, d100, d12 and d20, and roll all the dice. Default keys have plain solid round bows, as indicated to the picture to the left.
|d4||d6||d6 + d12|
| ||Length of Key 1"-6"|| |
Use the results from the previous d6 roll.
|Unlock Strength |
An even value on this table indicates that the key is gilded (d100>50) or painted(d100<50).
If the value is a multiple of 11, then the key is attached to a ring, with 1d4+1 other keys.
Parts of a Key
Bitting: This is the part of the key that actually touches the lock, it's covered in cuts of a variety of heights.
Blade: This is the shaft of the key, on which the bitting, wards, and cuts rest.
Bow: This is the handle of the key, the part that is grasped and turned when it is inserted into the lock.
Cuts: These are the notches made on the blade of the key. They raise and lower and turn the internal parts of the lock, allowing the key to unlock the lock.
Keyway: The silohette or profile of a key created by the shaft of the key (including the presence of any wards. This is the exact opposite of the keyway of the lock (obviously).
Shoulder: This is the connection between the bow and the blade of the key - usually serving the purpose of stopping the key from going too far into the lock.
Tip: The other side of the key, opposite the bow.
Warding: These are protrusions or distortions to the blade that prevent it from being used with other locks, besides the intended lock.
Other notes: The d100 is the 'lock strength' of the lock. Per Zak S, this is the percentage the key will open any locked door. Once the key has opened a door, it is useless. Unless it is a skeleton key, which may be used any number of times on the floor it is found.
This is released under the Alexandrian rule: If you use it in your game, you must come back and comment on it.
Some images that I sure as hell don't own:
|Plain, Round, Hollow Bow|
|Plain hex, solid bow|
|Fan Shaped/Mouse eared bow|
|Lion head bow|
|Tumbler Ring Key|